Dermatologists debunk 'glass skin' myth, urge teens to keep routines simple

Somewhere between the filtered selfies and the bathroom cabinet stacked with serums, a gap has opened up between what teenage skin actually needs and what social media says it should want. Dermatologists are now pushing back against the "glass skin" trend—the pursuit of a poreless, flawless complexion that has become a fixture of beauty content on platforms like TikTok and Instagram. The problem, according to consultant dermatologist Dr Jonathan Kentley, is that the standard itself is a fiction. "I've seen thousands of patients and I've never seen anyone with 'glass skin'," he says. "It's just these over-filtered images that make children think that this is achievable when it's not."

The trend has real consequences. Teenagers are watching Get Ready With Me videos and adopting skincare routines designed for adults—multi-step regimens with serums, toners, masks, and active ingredients that dermatologists say can actually damage skin that is still developing. More than 80 percent of teenagers between 13 and 18 experience acne at some point, which is entirely normal. So are visible pores, blackheads, blemishes, pigmentation, redness, and scarring. Dr Kentley's point is blunt: "I don't think there's anything that is really abnormal." What social media has done is reframe the ordinary as a problem requiring an elaborate solution.

The biology is straightforward. During puberty, testosterone—present in both boys and girls, though more prevalent in boys—drives an increase in oil production. Combined with blocked hair follicles and inflammation, this leads to blackheads, whiteheads, and inflamed spots. Dr Zainab Laftah, another consultant dermatologist, describes it plainly: "Acne is very, very common and it's normal and treatable." The treatment, however, does not require a bathroom full of products. Experts recommend exactly three things: a gentle cleanser, a fragrance-free moisturizer, and a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher. That is the complete routine.

What teenagers should avoid is the impulse to do more. A complicated regimen with frequent exfoliations or strong acids can irritate young skin whose barrier is still forming. Dr Kentley has observed a sharp rise in perioral dermatitis—a condition linked to the overuse of ingredients that strip the skin barrier, like exfoliating hydroxy acids and retinoids. Dr Laftah echoes the concern: "Teens are increasingly adopting adult-style routines with numerous serums, toners, masks and actives. These actives are likely to result in skin barrier compromise and lead to more skin issues." The irony is that the pursuit of perfect skin can create the very problems teenagers are trying to prevent.

Beyond the products themselves, sleep and diet matter. A lack of sleep raises cortisol, a stress hormone linked to acne breakouts. Diets high in refined carbohydrates, sugar, and whey protein have been associated with flare-ups, though Dr Kentley notes that individual skin responds differently to different triggers. The temptation to pick or pop spots should be resisted—doing so can push inflammation deeper into the skin, resulting in scarring and discoloration. Dr Laftah recommends hydrocolloid patches, a social media hack that actually works: they absorb fluid from superficial spots while creating a barrier that discourages picking.

For boys, shaving introduces an additional layer of complexity. Androgens make male skin more prone to oiliness and spots, and improper shaving technique can cause folliculitis and damage to the skin barrier. Dr Kentley's advice is methodical: shower first to soften the skin, use a shaving brush to lift the hairs, apply lubricating foam or gel, and always shave in the direction the hair grows. The broader message to all teenagers is the same: if you have persistent, painful cystic acne or scarring, see a doctor. Otherwise, keep it simple. The skin barrier is still developing. It does not need to be stripped and rebuilt every morning and night.