Britons embrace cottage pie over salad in 'reverse comfort eating' amid heat and uncertainty

What better way to connect with ourselves than through food?
A food historian explains why Britons are cooking hearty comfort meals during a heatwave.
Mark

Why would someone choose to stand over a hot stove during a heatwave? That seems almost willfully uncomfortable.

Mimi

Because the discomfort of the heat is almost secondary to the discomfort of everything else. When the world feels unstable—financially, politically, climatically—people reach for what feels solid and known. A cottage pie is a kind of anchor.

Mark

But couldn't they just eat it cold? Or make a salad instead?

Mimi

Salad doesn't carry the same weight. It's light, it's temporary, it doesn't satisfy in the way something slow-cooked and rich does. And practically, salad spoils. If you're shopping once a week on a tight budget, you need food that lasts and fills you.

Mark

So it's not really about the temperature of the food at all.

Mimi

Not really. It's about what the food means. A cottage pie means home, means care, means something your family made when you were young. In uncertain times, that matters more than whether your plate is hot or cold.

Mark

The data shows chicken korma is up too. That's not traditionally British.

Mimi

Exactly. This isn't nostalgia for some pure, imagined past. It's nostalgia for comfort itself—for the feeling of being looked after. That can come from anywhere. Britain's comfort foods have always been more mixed than people admit.

Mark

What happens when the crisis passes? Do people go back to salads?

Mimi

That's the question, isn't it. But I suspect the shift runs deeper than just the moment. Once you remember how much you need that feeling of being grounded, you don't entirely forget it.

  • Cottage pie sales have doubled at Waitrose in a single month, while searches for toad-in-the-hole and chicken korma surge — all during a heatwave that should, by any logic, be driving people toward salads.
  • Food historians and chefs describe a nation experiencing a kind of collective vertigo: cost-of-living pressures, wars abroad, political instability, and disorienting weather have stripped away the ordinary anchors of daily life.
  • Eating out has become unaffordable for many, pushing people to recreate pub classics at home — not just for economy, but for the sense of occasion and comfort those dishes once carried.
  • The data reveals something more nuanced than nostalgia: chicken korma sits alongside toad-in-the-hole, suggesting that even in retreat toward the familiar, Britain's multicultural palate quietly asserts itself.
  • The trend is landing not as a passing quirk but as a cultural signal — that in moments of upheaval, people cook not what the season demands, but what the soul requires.

In the sweltering heat of a British summer, something quietly revealing is happening in the nation's kitchens: ovens are being switched on, cottage pies are browning, and the cold salad sits untouched. What Waitrose has termed 'reverse comfort eating' — a surge of over 110% in cottage pie sales amid record temperatures — speaks less to appetite than to anxiety. When the world tilts into economic strain, political uncertainty, and weather that no longer follows its old rhythms, people reach not for the seasonal and sensible, but for the warm and remembered. Food, as it has always done in troubled times, becomes a way of finding ground.

The thermometer climbs past thirty degrees, and yet across Britain, ovens are being switched on. Waitrose has watched cottage pie sales double in a single month. South African red wine is up sixty-eight percent. Searches for toad-in-the-hole have jumped sixty-seven percent. The supermarket calls it 'reverse comfort eating,' and the data is consistent: chicken pie, korma, gratin, strawberry trifle — all surging in the height of summer.

Food historian Seren Charrington-Hollis encountered the phenomenon firsthand when she catered a festival during a heatwave, bringing cottage pies and lamb hotpots she expected to go untouched. They were devoured. She sees something deeper at work: when the cost of living bites, wars continue abroad, and the weather itself stops behaving as it should, people experience a kind of vertigo. Food becomes a reset — a way of returning to something solid and known.

MasterChef winner Simon Wood points to economics as much as psychology. Eating out has become a luxury, and pub classics like cottage pie are now being recreated at home, chasing the same comfort without the bill. There is also the practical logic: hearty dishes last the week; salads do not.

Food historian Rebecca Earle at the University of Warwick places the trend within a longer human pattern of using food to soothe distress, while noting something telling in the detail: chicken korma sits alongside the postwar British staples. Even in retreat toward the familiar, the nation's palate has quietly shifted.

Waitrose's senior innovation chef Stephen Parkins-Knight offers a final note: when heat drains you all day, what people crave is something grounding and substantial — food that tastes like something solid in an uncertain time. In the middle of summer, Britain is reaching for winter.

The thermometer climbs past thirty degrees. The kitchen is stifling. And yet, across Britain, people are turning on their ovens to make cottage pie.

It sounds counterintuitive—even perverse. During a heatwave, you'd expect the nation to reach for something cold and light: a salad, perhaps, or a glass of chilled rosé. Instead, Waitrose has watched cottage pie sales double in a single month. South African red wine is up sixty-eight percent. Searches for toad-in-the-hole have jumped sixty-seven percent. People are standing over hot stoves in sweltering heat, deliberately choosing the foods their grandmothers made.

The supermarket chain calls it "reverse comfort eating." The data tells a consistent story: chicken, bacon and leek pie up forty-one percent. Chicken korma up sixty-seven percent. Chicken and ham gratin up sixty-eight percent. Strawberry trifle—that most 1950s of puddings—has seen sales double year-on-year. Even spaghetti bolognese and mac and cheese with rarebit are drawing searchers to recipe sites in numbers that would have seemed unlikely in July.

Seren Charrington-Hollis, a food historian, found herself catering for a music festival during a heat wave. She brought cottage pies and lamb hotpots, expecting them to sit untouched. Instead, guests devoured them. "They were all fed up of salads," she recalls. The heat was unbearable, yet everyone wanted home-cooked meals. She sees something deeper at work: a psychological pivot toward the familiar when the world feels unstable. The cost of living crisis, wars abroad, political upheaval at home, and weather that doesn't behave as it should—all of it creates a kind of vertigo. Food becomes a reset button. "We're completely out of sync," Charrington-Hollis says. "What better way to connect with ourselves and get back to our roots than through food?"

Simon Wood, the 2015 MasterChef winner, points to economics. Eating out has become a luxury many can no longer afford. Cottage pie and lamb hotpot are pub classics—dishes people once paid for when they went out. Now they're making them at home, chasing that same sense of occasion and comfort without the bill. There's also the practical matter: salad doesn't last a week in the fridge, and many households shop only once. Hot, hearty ready meals solve a problem.

Rebecca Earle, a food historian at the University of Warwick, situates this within a longer human pattern. People have always used food to soothe distress. What's interesting here is what the data reveals about Britain itself. Yes, there are the postwar classics—the toad-in-the-holes and cottage pies. But chicken korma sits alongside them. "It's not all 1950s, trad wife stuff," Earle notes. "Amid all those white British dishes, we have a little glimmer of a multicultural Britain coming through." Even in retreat toward the familiar, the nation's palate has shifted.

Stephen Parkins-Knight, Waitrose's senior innovation chef, offers a final observation: raw salads and chilled plates lose their appeal when heat drains you all day. What people crave instead are rich, grounding staples—foods that feel substantial, that anchor you, that taste like something solid in an uncertain time. The heatwave is real. The economic pressure is real. The political turbulence is real. And so people cook. They choose warmth over coolness, substance over lightness, memory over novelty. In the middle of summer, they reach for winter.

We're completely out of sync. We're not used to all this warm weather. And what better way to connect with ourselves and almost get back to our roots than through food.
— Seren Charrington-Hollis, food historian
After spending all day drained by the heat, people crave rich, grounding staples to recharge, pivoting back toward comfort and familiarity.
— Stephen Parkins-Knight, Waitrose senior innovation chef
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